Fuji Scotia Part 4: Peggy’s Cove and Lunenberg with the X-H1

[This is a set of travelogue posts from my 2019 trip to Nova Scotia with Leona. Here’s a list of the series thus far:  Part 1 | Part 2 |  Part 3Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6.]

This day started with a relaxing drive southwest out of Halifax. My folks had told me that Peggy’s Cove and Lunenberg were must-see destinations, so we listened.

The lighthouse at Peggy’s Cove is just all right. It isn’t especially amazing on the east coast because there are so many other beautiful white and red lighthouses around, and it’s hard to get a great shot of this particular one with all of the people flocking around it.

The lighthouse at Peggy's Cove with a few visitors littered about.
The lighthouse at Peggy’s Cove.
I didn’t include the tourists for scale, they were just in the way.

However, it was fun to nab a shot from the extremely touristy restaurant, which also has a painting of the lighthouse on the window. By the way, if you’re hungry when you go to Peggy’s Cove, eat before or after the town. Don’t bother with the restaurant unless you also want to take this picture.

A photo of the lighthouse juxtaposed with a painting of the lighthouse that's hung on the inside of a window.
The lighthouse was inside us all along.

The large rock formations around the lighthouse were worth seeing though. The featured image of this post and this moody picture of Leona were the best shots.

Leona at the coast looking off into the distance.
Leona gazes off into the middle distance, and not just because I asked her to.

Surprisingly, the town itself was actually my favourite part. Its year-round population maxes out at 33 and the view is a mix of colourful hulls and houses contrasted with rusty brown anchors and fishing cages.

The grounded boats and the colourful houses at Peggy's Cove.
A view of Peggy’s Cove just around the bend from the lighthouse.
A broken down boat on the rocks at Peggy's Cove.
Ser Daboat Seaworthy.

On the way to Lunenberg we stopped by the memorial for Swiss Air 111, which crashed off of the coast in 1998. It was a really touching memorial with a beautifully written inscription carved across two stones, standing isolated against the skyline. I think a lot of memorials fail to communicate the gravity of the events they represent (it’s a hard thing to do), but this one was haunting.

The memorial for Swiss Air 111.

Our first view of Lunenberg was from the southern edge of the city so we could take in the historic view. I feel bad writing this, but the view wasn’t a highlight of the trip. We walked around a few city blocks and by the waterfront, but I didn’t find it as visually interesting as the mix of old boats and new tourists you see in Peggy’s Cove.

Downtown Lunenberg as seen from the south.

The Lunenberg Academy at the top of the hill was a great stop though. It’s an old school that has been turned into a public library, and they make fantastic use of the space. On the day we visited there were huge posters for Magic: The Gathering lessons on display and a number of people were tapping land and casting sorceries in hushed voices.

The second floor of the Academy houses a few offices and Leona and I were convinced it must be haunted. It was an eerie creeky place with motes of dust floating in the light. I even have a picture on my SD card that I don’t remember taking.

A nearly monochrome image of an illuminated surface; details are vague because the area is so dark.
What is the subject? I’m not sure.
I don’t remember taking this picture.

We ended the day by visiting the cemetery just outside the Academy. Leona loves cemetery walks and this one was particularly picturesque. The gravestones were so old and windswept that many of the engravings were difficult to read. I did appreciate having IBIS (in body image stabilization) in the X-H1 here because I could slow down the shutter but still get tack sharp images.

Photo of gravestones.
Photo of a gravestone with another stone toppled onto it.

There was a particularly poignant one for Sophia L, who supposedly died of a broken heart. She was accused of stealing something from a store in town and she fell deathly ill as a result of all the stress. After she died it was revealed that the storekeeper’s son was the actual thief, but it was too late to do anything by that point.

There’s an iron heart — split in two — right in front of Sophie’s grave.

Photo of Sophia's gravestone which reads "Erected by Sympathising Friends in Memory of Sophia L"